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Tamiya 58519 RC Toyota Bruiser

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Tamiya 1/10 Scale, Radio Controlled, Electric Powered Toyota 4x4 Bruiser Pickup Truck Kit.
Tamiya 58519 RC Toyota Bruiser
Product ID TA58519
Manufacturer Tamiya
ISBN 4950344585199
Tamiya 58519 RC Toyota Bruiser
  • Introduction
  • Detailedd Instructions
  • Reviews

FEATURES: Chassis: Steel ladder type, black in color                           
          Drive: Four wheel shaft                                              
          Motor: 540 brushed                                                   
          Pinion Gear: 19T metal                                               
          Transmission: Three speed with metal dog clutch and shift forks with 
            plastic gears, die-cast transmission housing (1st gear 4WD, 2nd    
            & 3rd gears rear wheel drive                                       
          Differentials: Planetary gear, can be locked for greater off-road    
          Suspension: Live axle, metal leaf spring                             
          Shocks: Oil-filled                                                   
          Body: Two-piece ABS plastic with interior detail                     
          Bumpers: Plastic, white in color                                     
          Wheels: Chrome plated plastic 2.2" (56mm) diameter, 1.7" (43mm)      
          Tires: All terrain 4.8" (123mm) diameter, 2.2" (56mm) wide           
          Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front   
            suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the 
          Camber: Non-adjustable                                               
INCLUDES: Toyota 4x4 Bruiser Pickup Truck Kit with Decals, Body Sections,      
            Plastic Windows, Tires, Wheels, Motor, Shocks and Instruction      
REQUIRES: Radio: 4-channel such as the Futaba 4YF on surface frequency,                                                     
          Servos: Two standard size (1-Shifting, 1-Steering)                   
          Electronic Speed Control: Compatible with included motor             
          Battery: 6-cell 7.2V stick pack with Standard connector              
          Battery Charger: To match selected battery                           
          Building and track equipment                                         
SPECS:    Finished size not provided by manufacturer                           
          Gear Ratio: 1st Gear 1:54.63, 2nd Gear 1:40.49, 3rd Gear 1:27.92     

BOX DIMENSIONS:   17.75" W. X   8.38" H. X  28.25" L.

My History with the Bruiser

The year was 1985 and I was in High School, Yes I was a 80's teen. I remember being in electronics class and a senior brought in this R/C Truck based on a Toyota 4x4, I had never heard of a Bruiser let alone the name Tamiya. He told me his plans were to put a working radio in it so it could play tunes while he was driving around, and lights and blinkers if he had time. I was so interested in his truck and ideas of his modifications, I offered to help.

It was the first time I had done anything like this and it turned out pretty nice considering the larger electronics we had back in the 80's. After seeing his Bruiser and finding out the cost, it was on my want list and the beginning of my love for Tamiya.

Through the years I have had many Tamiya's starting with my first The Blackfoot, I had never been able to put together the funds for a original Bruiser at the collector pricing and I have too many hobbies. Fast forward to the present, and my original goal has been reached. I know there are those that say its not the same as the original 58048, I do not care in many ways this one is better. Tamiya has taken a classic and kept that original touch with some current technology advancements. I am not keeping this in the box so it does not bother me it is not 100% as the original.

The Box

The box size is 27.5" x 16.75" x 7", sports the typical classic boxart drawing.


Step #1

Prepping the chassis, you will be adding more screws to the chassis. Let me make it easier for you, loosen all the screws in the chassis first. add a dab of threadlock before inserting new screws. My trick is to use tape on bottom of threadlock container so it does not move around and use a small zip tie to apply the threadlock. once you have new screws in remove all the original screws and add threadlock, then tighten those. The reason I say to do this is if you try to just insert the new screws the alignment may be off from current screws, so by loosening you can align them for the new screws. Hint: you will be using a lot of threadlock on this!


Step #2

On this step and future steps where threadlock and plastic are involved, please do your best to keep threadlock off plastic. Some times threadlock and eat at the plastic, better safe than sorry. Install your 4 damper bushings into the dampers stays and mount stays. Note on D7 (Crank Arm) once installed my seemed to rub a bit on chassis, so it would be a good time to check clearance once installed and you can slightly trim plastic on edge.


Steps #3 - 4

Steps 3-4 you will be attaching your shackle and stays. Make sure you add the washer to the front stay screw in step #3. Threadlock all screws.


Step #5

Make two bevel pinion gears the pin will be held in place once you slide the bearing in place.


Step #6

Assemble two differential gears, notice that 3 of (BA23) are in one direction and 3 are in the opposite. Add grease to all gears.

I left the top (BA22) out of picture so you can see the gear sides.


Steps #7 - 8

Assemble your axles in these steps. Add grease to diff, pinion and shaft before closing it up. Also notice in the left column of manual it shows you you can add a pin to lock the axle at this time. Don;t worry you can always add or remove the pin later.

Rear (Blue Tape)

Front (White Tape)


Step #9

Assemble the knuckles next and check the direction and placement of (BA35). Also make sure your Threadlock does not bind the movement.

Supplemental sheet mentions you might have a little extra flashing that causes a tight fit. I hot my axles ends with my dremel sander wheel lightly on the seams so they were smooth.

Step #10

Here we are putting the leafs on both axles. It mentions using rubber cement on some pieces, I believe to hold them in place while assembling. The cement is not included and I did not use it during my assembly. You will notice in the manual it points out the alignment of the axles with the hash marks and distance of leafs from ends. I suggest using those guidelines as guidelines only, as you will need to adjust that after mounting it to the chassis. So don't worry to much about it, just get it close and you will be finalizing that later.


Now time for a video brake

Below is a time lapse video I took while assembling steps 1 - 10.

Steps #11 - 12

Steps 11 - 12 you will be mounting the axles to the chassis. Remember the Threadlock and use the manual to get the steering rod the right length.


Steps 13 - 14

Here you will be assembling your shocks. Install the orings over the piston, hold on tight they may fly out of your hands. Cut the top off boot per the manual. Fill the shock body and either bleed shocks, I used a Tamiya vacuum bleeder. push free piston into body slowly until a bit of oil squirts out and install screw and wipe up oil. Install spring then cap and repeat four times.


Step #15

Make 4 wheel hubs, by pressing (G1) and bearing in. Make sure you seat (G1) fully in if it is not your wheel will have a a wobble to it.


Steps #16 -17

make sure you line up the slots on the axles when installing your wheel hubs. I had one that seemed to be a little trouble due to a little flashing left over, I hit it with a file and it was no problem. Do not forget to install the (BA12) washers when mounting up the shocks. Use the manual to measure out your steering rod.


Step #18

On to the part where I know a lot have been waiting for the tranny. This thing does look menacing with all those gears and pieces. we start on one end, make sure you get (BC1) measured out properly at 21mm that is your alignment helper for the shifting.


Step #19

What I found easiest on this step was to read it about 5 times and to it in your head at that time. After that I had all the pieces go on easy and in the right direction. Make sure you add enough grease on the correct items for ease of assembly.


Step #20

This step in not difficult, just a little tricky. Most important make sure you trim (G3) if any plastic on edges after removal from tree, else it will not fit right on main shaft grooves. what I found as a trick was to place a drop of grease in the holes for the steel balls then the steel balls in. it helped them stay put and not pop out while assembling the tranny.


Step #21

Watch the direction of your gears on this one and after you have the gear in place and pin inserted, roll the o-ring into the groove to keep the pin in place. Make sure you get the right size bearing on the correct end of the shaft.


Step #22

Note the direction of your planetary gears and push bearings in all the way. You are going to tighten your screws on the gear holder the same you would with lugs on a full size vehicle, in a star pattern. This will insure that you get a nice seat on all (BC21) shafts. Add grease to all gears before inserting it into tranny.


Step #23

Make sure you install all three bearings on this one and the e-clip, Add plenty of grease on the gears before you close it all up.


Step #24

Threadlock your grub screw and tighten it on the flat part of shaft, make sure you have a 14.5mm gap away from the motor. make sure your gear mesh is smooth and not too tight or loose.


Step #25

Get your propeller shafts installed, it's recommended to add a bit of rubber cement to the e-clips on the u-joints. Check your alignment of (BC11) on the shaft. Install (G2) and (G4) alignment pieces.


Now time for a video brake

Below is a time lapse video I took while assembling steps 11 - 25.

Step #26

We now give the chassis some purpose with the mounting of the transmission. Add some grease to the two extended screws and slide the tranny in at an angle so those screws slide into the rubber grommets, and secure the other end with (BC7) with threadlock. You can now attach prop shafts to the axles after you turn the chassis over. This is also a good time to check your axle alignment both left/right and to make sure your angle is good for the prop-shaft.


Step #29

Mount your servo's, note the direction and which one is which in case you are using a high torque for the steering. Mount them into the mechanism box in the correct direction. Slide the rubber shield in the correct direction followed by the frame (A4).


Step #30

Assemble rods with ends to correct lengths. choose correct lower servo saver piece and assemble rings. Make sure you trim shift horn as pictured.


Step #31

Mount servo savers and feed rods through rubber shield. Feed extension cables from receiver area through access hole in servo compartment.


Step #32

Hook-up and mount your Receiver and ESC with double sided tape. Cover switch with rubber boot.


Step #33

This has to be one of the tougher steps just do to alignment and getting the rubber o-rings in place. Mount your mechanism box on top of four o-rings and do not tighten too much. It is a bit tricky but I did one o-ring at a time and used a small hook tool to help place them. One idea is you could use some rubber cement to help hold them in place and mount it up after it dries.


Steps #34 - 36

Turn Radio and receiver on for these steps. Attach rod end to steering, adjust as needed for centering. Adjust rod end so it fits right on ball with no force forward or back then remove the alignment pieces from step #25.


Step #37

Mount battery tray.


Step #38

Mount your front and rear body posts, check hole direction on metal post. Attach front and rear bumpers, make sure you place front bumper behind washers on front screws.


Steps #39 - 40

Check tire direction for Left and Right, place two lefts and two rights in front of you and place wheels inside as pictured. It is best to scrape chrome off bead for gluing before placing wheel inside of tire. Place tires on the correct side of chassis and secure each wheel with 3 screws.


Now time for a video brake

Below is a time lapse video I took while assembling steps 26 - 41.

The Body

Now we start on the body, weather permitting we will get this done in a reasonable time. The Bruiser Body is made of 2.5 main pieces the Front Cab, Rear bed and Bed Sleeper/Camper. The front and rear parts are from molds of the Hilux Higlift..

On the rocker panels there are 2 holes that do not get used, The kit gives you colored tape to cover the holes, I wanted to fill my unused holes.I covered the holes that will be used to show what was left over and to be filled.

Holes filled.

After sanding them down.

The sleeper has you mount two body mounts inside it, for attachment to the bed.



On the interior there are three main parts, Seat, Floor and Dash. I started by taping off the interior to paint the seat.

Layed down a coat with my airbrush.

Taped off seats and dash.

Taped off floor and seats, and dash is now done.

Masked off center of wheel and painted it to give it a wood feel.

Using a Body from the Sand Rover and head from the FAV.

Due to the seat difference I had to build out the body.

Filled and sanded.

Same on this side.

Filled and sanded.

Sanded and painted.

Epoxied a block of wood to mount through seatback.

Mounted and he now has arms.


Body parts

Taped of the grille, and sprayed it black.

Taped of the louver edges, and sprayed it black.

Ready to put the lights in the bumper.

Masked off the blinkers and painted orange.

Assemble lights in bumper.

After priming and panting sleeper cab white, mask off side windows and paint black.

Peeled off masking, now I will paint the trim around windows by hand.

Masked off cab to expose trim, paint by hand.

Peeled off tape, now touch up any bleeds.

Paint marker lights orange.

Glue lenses to mounts.

Mount bumper to grille.

Add angle bracket to back of grille.

Assemble headlights and mount to grille.



I started to spray the under bed black and inside fenders blue.

Taped of the bed so I could give the bed a sprayed on bedliner look.

Started painting the outside.



Gave the inside of the cab a coat of blue.

Started some coats on outside.

Got one base coat applied.


LED Lights

Here is a video that shows how I setup my LED lights. I used a board to lay it all out so I could program the TLU-02 unit to get my lights setup.


Like I mentioned before I will be adding

  • Headlights
  • Side markerlights
  • Brakelights
  • Blinkers
  • Reverselights
  • Front parkinglights

    Mount side markerlights, note front fender version has a direction one side is squared-off.

    After front marker lights are in you can mount the front grille and ad add lights. if you do it the opposite it will be difficult to get access to side markerlights.

    On the rear you should wire the tail lights first before markers due to their placement compared to the front.

    Mount side markerlights, note front fender version has a direction one side is squared-off.

    I added zipties every inch or so and secured loom with hot glue. that will keep your wiring neat and out of the way.

    I will be adding a winch to the bruiser.

    I really tried to keep the wiring clean on the chassis. I mounted the TLU-02 infront of battery and used three servo extenders. Two for the Steering and ESC and one for the winch. I ran them all through the access hole under the battery holder and soldiered the power for the TLU-02 and winch direct to battery lead. Ziptied it all up to keep wires away from moving parts.

    Created a mount from some scrap aluminum I had.

    All mounted up on the bracket.

    placed it up behind the bumper just to see what it looked like and mark holes.

    Got it mounted up.


It is completed!

Cut out the stickers and applied them to the body.

More shots:


Bruiser Lighting

I have received questions from Tamiya customers about the LED's and how I did it. Please remember this is how I did my build, there is no right -or- wrong way to do it. The manual does not show the side fender marker lights being used, I did as I knew it could be done. Make sure your lenses are painted the correct color, I chose regular colors rather than clear colors. I like how the regular paint disperses the light, instead of being able to see the bulb. Below is a list of what I used in regards to Tamiya products.

TLU Used:

TLU-01's come with one white 5mm and one Red 5mm set of LED's. You will only being using one of the whites for headlights. Since all the rest of lights are 3mm in size you will need to use what I have listed here. You could get away using only one TLU-01 if you did not want to use all the lights or the ability to get all the functions of (turn signals, reverse, Day/night driving, etc..). I used two TLU-01's and a TLU-02 to give me full functionality and raise the bar on the this bruiser build.

To better understand how the TLU-01 and TLU-02 work please refer to my article HERE.

As far as what ports are used, here is an example
  • Port 1 Head/Aux/Parking lights
  • Port 2 is off unless full throttle then flashing
  • Port 3 Head/Aux/Parking lights
  • Port 4 Reverse
  • Port 5 Brake
  • Port 6 Brake
  • Port 7 Right blinker
  • Port 8 Left blinker

    LED Lights Used:

    • Item #54009 Brake Lights -RED - 3mm - 1pc (ones included with TLU-01 are 5mm)

    • Item #54008 Reverse -White- 3mm - 1pc

    • Item# 53912 Turn Signals - Orange 3mm - 2pcs (These will need to be modified**)

    • Item# 53912 Aux Lights - Orange 3mm - 2pcs

    • Head Lights - White - 5mm - 1pc (included w/ TLU-01)

    • Item #54008 Front Marker Lights - White - 3mm - 1pc

    **Modified Turn signals
    I had to modify the LED's for the turn signals, due to the length of the Bruiser. Tamiya LED's length from connector to LED is around 15". If you spread the two LED's apart you get about 9.5", the Bruiser needs about 19" from front to back. So I would rather have a little too much length then come up too short, I gave my LED's a 22" spread.

    The LED's have a positive and negative wire each attached to a LED. There is a jumper wire going between the LED's to complete the circuit. This is the wire we will be lengthening. You can either replace this wire with a new 22" wire or cut the existing wire and add 12.5" of wire. Either way make sure you use shrink wrap to isolate the soldered ends from shorting.

    Now you can stretch each LED from front to back for your left and right blinkers.

Highlight MFU?

One question I have seen asked a bit is whether the MFU (sounds and Lights) from the Highlift trucks will fit in the Bruiser?

Well I have all three Highlifts all equipped with MFU's, I have even modified a MFU to fit in a CR-01 FJ40 land Cruiser. So will it fit? Yes I see no reason you would not be able to modify the Bruiser to make it fit. You would need to do away with the electronics box if you want the speaker in back. and you might have to ditch the interior for room and black out the windows.

Again I see no reason with some creativity and some modification it would not fit, If you are daring enough to try it I'd love to see it. This bruiser will not be modified for the MFU anytime in the near future.

We have a member in our forums who added the MFU to his Bruiser. Thanks to TDanny for the great write up and beautiful work seen HERE..

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